Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Free crochet pattern by cRAfterChick.com

Do you Funko? I sure do.

This Amigurumi doll crochet pattern was born out of my love for the Funko collectibles and one of my ultimate fandoms.. Disney.  I thought he would be a perfect first start on my army of Funko inspired dolls.  

Jungle Book's Mowgli Funko Collectible

 

You can find the Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern here.

Stay tuned in to see who else will be joining him…

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll Crochet (side front view)

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Notes

Project requires:
Medium to dark tan flesh tone yarn
Black yarn
Orange yarn
(I use a lot of Red Heart Saver or Caron One Pound skein yarn but any medium to normal 4 weight yarn will do)
“G” to “H” hook (4.0-5.0 mm) – I actually used my preferred Clover hook which is inbetween a 7 (4.5 mm) and ended up with doll, once hair attached at just over 11 inches tall
Safety eyes (x2)
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
BLO – back loops only (US)

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Free Crochet Pattern by cRAfterChick.com

Legs (x2)- using tan flesh colored yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4 (Done in BLO): Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st BLO around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 7 times, 1 sc in last 5 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (17 st)
Rd 6: Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 4 times, 1 sc in last 4 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (13 st)
Rd 7-16: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in the top of 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Rd 17: Ch 1, before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in tip of the 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Leave yarn with long enough tail to secure on to the Mowgli’s body when ready to sew on before cutting yarn and pull through.
Lightly stuff legs with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.
Repeat for second leg and put to side until ready to assemble.

Arms (x2) –
using tan to dark flesh tone yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (9 sc)
Rds 3- 15: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc)
Rd 16: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc) Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the arm on to the Mowgli’s body when ready to in assembly process. Pull through stitch.
Lightly stuff arms with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.
Repeat above for second arm and place to side until ready to assemble.

Body- using tan to dark flesh tone yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (12 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (24 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rds 6-15: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rd 16: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 20: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 sc)
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Stuff body to a fullness but with some give still for hugs and to be able to get your needle through when attaching limbs.
Put to side until assembly.

Head- using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (32 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rds 6-17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
(This is normally a good time to put in the safety eyes as it gets narrower but it’s not impossible to do once head is finished as it has an open bottom. I do sometimes leave it until almost done as well.) 
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (32 st)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 20: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (16 st)
Rd 21: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 st).
Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the head on to the doll’s body when ready to in assembly’s process. Pull through stitch.

Bottoms- using orange yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (12 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (24 sc)
Rds 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rds 6-11: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rd 12: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st worked. (36 sc)
Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the bottoms on to the Mowgli’s body when ready to during the assembly process. Pull through stitch.

Hair / Wig Piece- using black yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (32 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rds 6-7: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rd 8: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc) Leave yarn tail long enough to secure hair / wig piece on top of doll’s head before cutting yarn and pulling through. Put to side until ready to assemble.

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll Assembly Pieces

Mowgli Assembly:

You should have:
– 1 head
– 1 body
– 2 legs
– 2 arms
– 1 bottoms piece
– 1 hairpiece

Check his body for stuffing level. If too floppy add a bit more. If hard, remove a bit or needle will not pass through easily.

First we will sew the bottoms on to body by using a yarn needle and yarn tail left on the bottoms. One secured, pull yarn tail to inside of body and cut.

Take one leg and check stuffing level, if good, use yarn needle and tail to attach to bottom of body in desired position. Once sewn in position, repeat with second leg. ( You can see my pictures for location I placed mine for better huggability.)

Next up are Mowgli’s arms. Check the amount of stuffing in arms. Once ready, take yarn tails and secure arm on side of doll until firmly in place. Fasten off. Repeat with second arm on other side.

Before you attach the head, make sure you have attached safety eyes (if you want them) or stitched on your facework. I just did a few stitches in and out over two round spaces to make the nose. *note I have no sewing talent*

Take the tail on your wig / hair piece and yarn needle to sew the hair piece on top of the head in place. This is what you will be attaching his yarn “hair” to. When securely in place, fasten off.

Once you have that ready, stuff the head to desired amount. Check it over and body again as this will be your last chance to stuff it. When all done, use yarn needle and yarn tail on head to sew securely in place on top of opening of body. Fasten off when done.

Sewing last round and next round out will make less wobbly at the neck area when you are working with lots of hair.

All that is left is the really fun part… I laugh. I find this oddly meditative at times watching tv. Basically you are going to make lengths of yarn and just keep cutting them to pull through stitches on your wig/ hair piece to lay the way you want to mimic hair. You will bend each strand in half, take your crochet hook, pull it through and then pull the ends through that loop you pulled through. For each strand of hair. It sounds uber complicated if you have no idea what I am talking about but it really is not. Here is a great tutorial on doing this by Vone Knits on Youtube. (I am working on adding a quick tutorial section once video is set up.) :)

Once you get all the hair in, just part down the middle, cut the bangs to a point in the middle. Then bingo. Mowgli. 😀

Okay this little guy was having some major hair cut hair shock going on. lol

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll Crochet (front side view)

 

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll Crochet (rear view)

 

 

 

<3 cRAfterChick

FUNKO INSPIRED AMIGURUMI DOLLS BANNER

Want more free patterns? Follow cRAfterChick on Facebook or Pinterest to get updates on patterns as they are added.

Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

This pattern was born out of love for Funko pop collectibles and my growing addiction to collecting them. Often I wanted plush dolls of them but to be honest they never have the characters I like.

So what happens when you can’t find something but you are crafty and geeky? Yep. You make it yourself. So now I have a small army expanding and overtaking my bedroom slowly but surely. It’s pretty awesome to be honest.  I have mock-ups for some of my favorite fandoms and characters swirling around in my head.  What can you imagine?

But we all start somewhere… here is the base for the Funko inspired dolls I have been created. Shown completed here as Mowgli (because naked dolls are oddly disturbing to me). If you can work in the round and do single crochet, you can make this doll. No fancy stitches and he is hug approved.  My dolls done with when Medium (4- weight Caron one-pounder) yarn and a H hook came to just over 11 inches tall when completed.

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Free Crochet Pattern from cRAfterChick.com

Project requires:
Flesh tone yarn 
Safety eyes (x2) or black yarn to stitch on eyes
(I use a lot of Red Heart Saver or Caron One Pound skein yarn but any medium to normal 4 weight yarn will do)
“G” to “H” hook (4.0-5.0 mm) – I actually used my preferred Clover hook which is inbetween a 7 (4.5 mm) and ended up with doll, once hair attached at just over 11 inches tall
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
BLO – back loops only (US)

Basic Funko Crochet Doll as Jungle Book's Mowgli

 

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Notes

Legs (x) – using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1:  In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2:  Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4 (Done in BLO):  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st BLO around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 5:  Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 7 times, 1 sc in last 5 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (17 st)
Rd 6:  Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 4 times, 1 sc in last 4 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (13 st)
Rds 7-16:  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in the top of 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Rd 17:  Ch 1, before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in tip of the 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Leave yarn with long enough tail to secure on to the dolls body when ready to sew on before cutting yarn and pull through.
Lightly stuff legs with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.  
Repeat for second leg and put to side until ready to assemble.

Arms (x2) –  using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1:  In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (9 sc)
Rds 3- 15:  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc)
Rd 16: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc) Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the arm on to the doll’s body when ready to in assembly’s process. Pull through stitch.
Lightly stuff arms with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.
Repeat above for second arm and place to side until ready to assemble.  

Body-  using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1:  In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2:  Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (12 sc)
Rd 3:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 4:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked  (24 sc)
Rd 5:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rds 6-15:  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rd 16:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st,  sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 20:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 sc)
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Stuff body to a fullness but with some give still for hugs and to be able to get your needle through when attaching limbs.
Put to side until assembly.

Head-  using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1:  In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2:  Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked  (32 sc)
Rd 5:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rds 6-17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
(This is normally a good time to put in the safety eyes as it gets narrower but it’s not impossible to do once head is finished as it has an open bottom. I do sometimes leave it until almost done as well. )
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (32 st)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 20: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (16 st)
Rd 21: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 st).
Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the head on to the doll’s body when ready to in assembly’s process. Pull through stitch.

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Pieces to Assemble

Doll Assembly:
You should have:

  • 1 doll head
  • 1 doll body
  • 2 doll legs
  • 2 doll arms

I normally start with the legs and work my way up.

Check your stuffing to make sure desired firmness before taking a yarn needle and the yarn tail on one leg use it to fasten your doll’s leg in desired location on body. (You can see my pictures to see how I placed mine to reflect the Funko characters.)  Once done, repeat with second leg.

You are then going to repeat process with the dolls arms. Check for stuffing firmness. Not packed tight but not deflated and sew in place. Pull yarn tail to inside and cut off.

Now we come to the head. There are a couple of things you want to do here before you attach the head. This pattern is for the basic so I will stick to most important but I do want to let you know it is important to stop here if you want to do any additionally embroidery on face, coloring etc before head is attached. It makes it much easier.

If you have your eyes in place, head stuffed and are ready to go, move on to this step. Take your yarn tail from the head and yarn needle to secure your head in desired position on top of the opening of the doll body.  

To make heads less floppy when doing large hair, I attach the joining and run another round out on the head.

There is your doll. Feel free to decorate it, dress, add hair, clothing, change colors up. However you wish.

I have a small army that I have been working on that includes characters from Marvel, video games and Disney. I am pretty excited to share them with you when done. So keep tuned and please drop and share your creations from the pattern base. I would love to see what you create with it. 

<3 cRAfterChick

FUNKO INSPIRED AMIGURUMI DOLLS BANNER

Want more free patterns? Follow cRAfterChick on Facebook or Pinterest to get updates on patterns as they are added.

Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!

Funko Inspired Amigurumi Dolls

FUNKO INSPIRED AMIGURUMI DOLLS BANNER

Fresh off the hook, I finally finished the details on the first five dolls in my new collection of new crochet patterns I have been designing that I hinted at in blog from the other day, So Many Doll Parts…. :)

So happy to share them with you finally. So here they are. These amigurumi dolls are based on the Funko collectibles on characters I love.

Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Collection

I am currently typing of the patterns from my handwritten notes for the following, starting from left to right in picture above.

Marvel Quicksilver Amigurumi Doll

Marvel Quicksilver Amigurumi Doll

Disney's Ariel Little Mermaid Amigurumi Doll

Disney’s Ariel Little Mermaid Amigurumi Doll

Fallout's Vault Boy Amigurumi Doll

Fallout’s Vault Boy Amigurumi Doll

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Amigurumi Doll

Ms Marvel Kamala Khan Amigurumi Doll

Ms Marvel Kamala Khan Amigurumi Doll

 

So this has been my labor of love. I have been dying to spill the secret before it was done. There are plans for many more characters to be made with mockups drawn up for lots of my beloved favs from fandoms I adore. Any you would to see?

Off to work on typing up these patterns and the base pattern for the doll body so you can make your own crochet creations.

What has been on your hooks lately?

Happy crocheting!

<3 cRAfterChick

Want more free patterns? Follow cRAfterChick on Facebook or Pinterest to get updates on patterns as they are added.

Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!

So Many Doll Parts…

SO MANY DOLL PARTS... Crochet doll wip cRAfterChick

I am doll eyes, doll mouth, doll legs, I am doll arms …. Okay this blog is really not about Hole but that song played through my head a lot when I took time to look at the growing pile of doll limbs piling up in front of me. Sure I kept them organizing by project for once, (Go me!) but it was starting to get creepy with all the limbs around here.

crochet doll parts cRAfterChick

So this is the peek at what I have been working on. A new direction for me but a whole new line of free crochet patterns with a base amigurumi crochet doll body.  So far I have 7 dolls almost finished. Just a few more tiny touches to finish and pictures to take before writing up the full patterns.

I will be sharing the patterns for each doll with you as I go along now that I am back to crocheting again.  Looking forward to seeing what you all think of the new patterns.

Any guesses as to what these pieces make yet?  What has been on your hooks?

Happy crocheting!

<3 cRAfterChick

 

 

Want more free patterns? Follow cRAfterChick on Facebook or Pinterest to get updates on patterns as they are added.

Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!

Rainbow Cuddles Stuffed Crochet Unicorn with Bow on Tail Project (Done)

Rainbow Cuddles Stuffed Crochet Unicorn with Bow on Tail Project _ a chick crafting through Rheumatoid Arthritis cRAfterChick.com

Rainbow Cuddles Stuffed Crochet Unicorn with Bow on Tail Project (Done)

free crochet pattern found online by OneDogWoof

I had a request last year for another unicorn, this one larger for for a family member’s oldest girl to cuddle and carry around. When I came across the free crochet pattern by OneDogWoof I knew I found a perfect match for her and didn’t need to brainstorm any more as requests were made for all 4 of the children in that family plus the holidays were rapidly approaching. (Yes… yikes.)

Here is what the original pattern with colors from their pattern looked like in picture below.

Rainbow Cuddles Crochet Unicorn Pattern One Dog Woof

Unfortunately Hurricane Irma happened. While we did not sustain much damage to our home itself, our yard and fence plus my body itself did. I could not crochet again til this past week. So this little guy sat with no tail or mane until a few days ago.

I decided to add the bow to secure the tail and hide any ugly extra double knots I add for security with little ones… plus I really love giving the girls the pink bows they love. :) I did change the leg positioning to the the sides more for better hugging and cuddling at night. After a bit of struggling due to hands and that mane, I am pleased with the end result. Hoping the little one will be as well.

Here are some pics of the adorable unicorn. The pattern is a definite keeper.

Rainbow Cuddles Stuffed Crochet Unicorn with Bow on Tail Project (front view) a chick crafting through Rheumatoid Arthritis cRAfterChick.com

Rainbow Cuddles Stuffed Crochet Unicorn with Bow on Tail Project (back view) a chick crafting through Rheumatoid Arthritis cRAfterChick.com

Rainbow Cuddles Stuffed Crochet Unicorn with Bow on Tail Project (huggable view) a chick crafting through Rheumatoid Arthritis cRAfterChick.com

Rainbow Cuddles Stuffed Crochet Unicorn with Bow on Tail Project (side view) a chick crafting through Rheumatoid Arthritis cRAfterChick.com

<3 cRAfterChick

P.S. Keep tuned for updated blogs and pictures for all the projects I did but didn’t update on pre Irma. Lots of amigurumi and a whole new free pattern set I have been creating that I am very excited about.

 

Happy to Back

Thank you for your kind wishes and support from cRAfterChick.com returning to crochet

So happy to be back!

I would like to thank all of the support I have had during my absence and visitors that have kept the website going while I worked on my health. Yesterday, I picked my crochet hook for first time in awhile, and it was a glorious thing.

I spent this past week clearing out a new work space and setting up plans to edit past patterns for any boo boos, get up better images, make site friendlier to use, plus post a bunch of new patterns I was working on before my oomph left me when hurricane Irma hit.

I am really excited to share with you a new line of free fun patterns I started on in the near future. Cute and completely geektastic. 😀

Your patience and understanding during my absence has been much appreciated.

Thank you.

<3 cRAfterChick

 

Fionna Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern

Fionna Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern_ a chick crafting through Rheumatoid Arthritis cRAfterChick.com

Fionna Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern

free crochet applique pattern by cRAfterChick.com

Fionna Adventure Time Face Applique Free Crochet Pattern long image

As a request due to the popularity of my Adventure Times previous patterns (see here) I came up with the idea for some easy face appliques to apply to different projects instead of making a hundred (okay exaggeration) detailed character hats for the kids in my family and mother’s school.  So that is how this Fionna face applique was born.  Don’t miss out on the Finn face applique previously posted too (Get his free pattern here).  This is a beginner friendly pattern and is worked in the round.

Fionna Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern

Have you not heard of Fionna or Adventure Time yet?  I guess that’s possible. 😉  If you haven’t and want to learn more, please check out information here.  This is the inspirational picture I used when making this applique.

Inspiration picture for Fionna Adventure Time face crochet applique

Project requires:
White yarn for applique base
Light tan, beige or pale pink yarn for face area
Golden to yellow yarn for hair strand
Black yarn for face features
(I use a lot of Red Heart Saver yarn but any medium to normal weight yarn will do)
“J” hook (6.0 mm) or desired hook for smaller or larger applique than mine shown
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
dc – double crochet (US)
hdc – half double crochet (US)

Fionna Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern Notes

Fiona Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern - free crochet applique pattern by cRAfterChick.com

Colored Face Area: using light tan, beige or pale pink yarn
Round 1: In a magic (adjustable) circle ch 2 before placing the following st in this order in to the circle: (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc). Pull ovalish circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (10 st total)
Round 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in 1st 3 st, 1 hdc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next 3 st and 1 hdc in last 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (16 st total)
Before cutting yarn measure out a yarn tail length long enough to be able to securely sew the face area in place during assembly steps of the applique. Cut yarn and pull through last loop on hook to secure end. To avoid tangling up of yarn tails until I am ready to sew them in place I just wrap them in little bundles and pull yarn through center but not too tightly or it can be hard to undo if you have it like that for a long length of time. Place to side until needed in finishing steps for assembly.

Head / Hat Applique Base with ears: using white yarn
Round 1: In a magic (adjustable) circle ch 2 before placing the following st in this order in to the circle: (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc). Pull ovalish circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (10 st total)
Round 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in 1st 3 st, 1 hdc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next 3 st and 1 hdc in last 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (16 st total)
Round 3: Ch 1 before placing *2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next st* repeat *2 more times, 1 sc in next 3 st, repeat *3 times and 1 sc in remaining last 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (22 st total)
Round 4: Ch 6 before placing 1 sc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the following 2 ch, sl st in last ch, sl st in following st of round, make 1 sl st in each of the following 5 st around, ch 7 before placing 1 sc in 4th ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the following 2 ch, sl st in last ch, sl st in the following st of round, make 1 sl st in each of the following st for the rest of the round. Sl st in the base of the chain st from start of round.
Before cutting yarn measure out a yarn tail length long enough to be able to securely sew the your applique on after assembly. Cut yarn and pull through last loop on hook to secure end. To avoid tangling up of yarn tails until I am ready to attach them to desired project I just wrap them in little bundles and pull yarn through center but not too tightly or it can be hard to undo if you have it like that for a long length of time. Place to side until needed in finishing steps for assembly.

Bangs / Hair on side strand: using golden / yellow yarn
Make a chain of 10. Cut yarn leaving a yarn tail long enough to sew in place on to rim of face area before pulling through last loop on hook. Place to side until ready.

Eyes (Make 2): using black yarn
Cut a short length of black yarn. Make a double knot in center of yarn piece. Double knot around the previous knot. That’s it. That is your eye. Repeat the process for the second eye. Place to side until needed in assembly.

Smile: using black yarn
Cut a short length of black yarn long enough to stitch a smile on to the face area during following steps in assembly. Place to side until steps require this length. I normally cut 3 to 4 times the length I will be stitching since I double stitch everything but whatever you need is fine. :)

Fionna Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern3

Assembly / Finishing Instructions:

The following steps require these completed crochet features:
1 – Applique  Fionna head base
1 – Colored face area
1 – hair strand piece
2 – eyes
1 – smile
Using the yarn tail on of your eyes you created in previous steps, attach to desired location on colored face area by making a double knot in the back of your project. Weave in ends and cut off extra length in the back. Repeat for second eye.
Taking the yarn tail left on Fionna’s smile and use your yarn needle to sew it in desired place near the center bottom of the colored face area.  Once securely in place pull yarn to the backside of the face area and fasten off.
Taking the yarn tail left on Fionna’s bangs / hair strand piece and use your yarn needle to sew it in desired place along the top left side of the colored face area.  You can reference my pictures to see how I placed my own if you are looking for guidance.  Once securely in place pull yarn to the backside of the face area and fasten off.
Now your colored face area is ready to be sewn on to the applique base of Fionna’s head.  Using your yarn needle and yarn tail left on the face area to sew it securely in place on to the applique base.  You can reference my pictures to see how I placed mine if you are needing any guidance.  Once attached, pull yarn tail to the backside of the applique and fasten off.  You should only have one yarn tail left in white yarn on the applique base. Do not fasten this off as you will use this to attach it to your desired project.
Now that your applique is assembled you are ready to decide what project you want to add it to.  This applique is a super fun but small project that works for most hats, bags, cozies and more!

Ready to attach to your desired project? Move on to next step:

Fionna Adventure Time Face Applique Free Crochet Pattern

You will use the remaining yarn tail from your Fionna face applique and the yarn needle to sew your finished Adventure Time applique directly on to your desired project.  Once you have secured it in place, pull the yarn to the inside (or backside depending on project) before fastening off.
Now take the time to look over your finished applique to make sure you didn’t miss any loose ends, yarn tails etc.  If you find any, go ahead and fasten them off now.
That’s it. All done! One cool Fionna worthy project. I hope you enjoyed this pattern, if you have any questions please let me know. Happy crafting! :)

Fionna Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern4

Want more free patterns? Follow cRAfterChick on Facebook or Pinterest to get updates on patterns as they are added.

Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!

Finn Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern

Finn Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern_ a chick crafting through Rheumatoid Arthritis cRAfterChick.com

Finn Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern
free crochet applique pattern by cRAfterChick.com

Copy of Adventure Time’s Finn Character Hat Free Crochet Pattern long

As a request due to the popularity of my Adventure Times previous patterns (see here) I came up with the idea for some easy face appliques to apply to different projects instead of making a hundred (okay exaggeration) detailed character hats for the kids in my family and mother’s school.  So thus this Finn Face applique was born.

He is really simple and cute.  A quick beginner friendly project that you can crochet up in one sitting, even make up the pieces for multiple and wait til they pile up to sew together. Ahem. Not that I do that a lot. Okay I admit. There are tons of little Adventure Time pieces throughout my room at the minute.  Oops.  Once I get them all together they will be on here as well so keep an eye out! Also as you can see from picture  a little bit down below on page Fionna is done so her pattern will be up asap too.  Well here is his pattern.

Finn Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern3

Have you not heard of Finn or Adventure Time yet?  I guess that’s possible. 😉  If you haven’t and want to learn more, please check out information here.

Project requires:
White yarn for applique base
(I use a lot of Red Heart Saver yarn but any medium to normal weight yarn will do)
“J” hook (6.0 mm) or desired hook for smaller or larger applique than mine shown
Light tan, beige or pale pink yarn for face area
Black yarn for face features
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
dc – double crochet (US)
hdc – half double crochet (US)

Finn Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern Notes

Finn Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern2

Colored Face Area: using light tan, beige or pale pink yarn
Round 1: In a magic (adjustable) circle ch 2 before placing the following st in this order in to the circle: (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc). Pull ovalish circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (10 st total)
Round 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in 1st 3 st, 1 sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next 3 st and 1 sc in last 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (16 st total)
Before cutting yarn measure out a yarn tail length long enough to be able to securely sew the face area in place during assembly steps of the applique. Cut yarn and pull through last loop on hook to secure end. To avoid tangling up of yarn tails until I am ready to sew them in place I just wrap them in little bundles and pull yarn through center but not too tightly or it can be hard to undo if you have it like that for a long length of time. Place to side until needed in finishing steps for assembly.

Head / Hat Applique Base with ears: using white yarn
Round 1: In a magic (adjustable) circle ch 2 before placing the following st in this order in to the circle: (1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc). Pull ovalish circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (10 st total)
Round 2: Ch 2 before placing 2 hdc in 1st 3 st, 1 hdc in next 2 st, 2 hdc in next 3 st and 1 hdc in last 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (16 st total)
Round 3: Ch 1 before placing *2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next st* repeat *2 more times, 1 sc in next 3 st, repeat *3 times and 1 sc in remaining last 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (22 st total)
Round 4: Ch 3 before placing 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in last ch, ch 1 and sl st in 2nd st in round. Sl st in next 4 st, ch 1 before placing 1 sc in next 6 st, ch 1 before sl st in next st, sl st in next 5  st, ch 4 before placing 1 sc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 sc in last ch before sl st in next st in round before making 1 sl st in each of the remaining st around. Sl st in the base of starting chain from the round.
Before cutting yarn measure out a yarn tail length long enough to be able to securely sew the your applique in after assembly. Cut yarn and pull through last loop on hook to secure end. To avoid tangling up of yarn tails until I am ready to attach them to desired project I just wrap them in little bundles and pull yarn through center but not tootightly or it can be hard to undo if you have it like that for a long length of time. Place to side until needed in finishing steps for assembly.

Eyes (Make 2): using black yarn
Cut a short length of black yarn. Make a double knot in center of yarn piece. Double knot around the previous knot. That’s it. That is your eye. Repeat the process for the second eye. Place to side until needed in assembly.

Smile: using black yarn
Cut a short length of black yarn long enough to stitch a smile on to the face area during following steps in assembly. Place to side until steps require this length. I normally cut 3 to 4 times the length I will be stitching since I double stitch everything but whatever you need is fine. :)

Finn Adventure Time Face Applique Crochet Pattern3

Assembly / Finishing Instructions:
The following steps require these completed crochet features:
1 – Applique base
1 – Colored face area
2 – eyes
1 – smile
Using the yarn tail on of your eyes you created in previous steps, attach to desired location on colored face area by making a double knot in the back of your project. Weave in ends and cut off extra length in the back. Repeat for second eye.
Taking the yarn tail left on Finn’s smile and use your yarn needle to sew it in desired place near the center bottom of the colored face area.  Once securely in place pull yarn to the backside of the face area and fasten off.
Now your colored face area is ready to be sewn on to the applique base of Finn’s head.  Using your  yarn needle and yarn tail left on the face area to sew it securely in place on to the applique base.  You can reference my pictures to see how I placed mine if you are needing any guidance.  Once attached, pull yarn tail to the backside of the applique and fasten off.  You should only have one yarn tail left in white yarn on the applique base. Do not fasten this off as you will use this to attach it to your desired project.
Now that your applique is assembled you are ready to decide what project you want to add it to.  This applique is a fun but small project that works for most hats, bags, cozies and more!

Ready to attach to your desired project? Move on to next step:
You will use the remaining yarn tail from your applique and the yarn needle to sew your finished applique directly on to your desired project.  Once you have secured it in place, pull the yarn to the inside (or backside depending on project) before fastening off.
Now take the time to look over your finished applique to make sure you didn’t miss any loose ends, yarn tails etc.  If you find any, go ahead and fasten them off now.  That’s it. All done!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern, if you have any questions please let me know. Happy crafting! :)

Finn Adventure Time Face Applique Free Crochet Pattern

Want more free patterns? Follow cRAfterChick on Facebook or Pinterest to get updates on patterns as they are added.

Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern_ a chick crafting through Rheumatoid Arthritis cRAfterChick.com

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern

 free character hat crochet pattern from cRAfterChick.com

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern long image

One of my friends suggested making a Pingu character hat for my mother to wear in her classroom during story time. :) I thought he was mighty cute so I created this hat for her class.  It’s a beginner friendly pattern so give it a whirl. Happy crafting!

Oh and here is what Pingu looks like normally:

Pingu the penguin inspiration picture for my crochet character hat

Learn more about Pingu here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pingu\

Get Pingu videos and items here.

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern Notes

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern

Project requires:
Black  yarn for beanie main color and eye pupils
(I use a lot of Red Heart Saver yarn but any medium to normal weight yarn will do)
“J” hook (6.0 mm)
Orange yarn for beak and hat trim
White yarn for eye whites
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends
Small amount of fiberfill stuffing for Pingu’s beak

Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
dc – double crochet (US)
hdc – half double crochet (US)

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern 2

Pattern Instructions:

*Note: This project is worked in the round on the base of a magic ring. If you do not know how to do this, please see tutorial here from: yarntomato on CrochetMe

The hat in this picture is made with my free Easy Peasy Youth Sized (Age 3-10 years old) Double Crochet Beanie  Hat Pattern which you can find  here as a foundation for the project. Want it in another size? No worries. Head over to Easy Peasy All Family Sizes Free Double Crochet Beanie Patterns to select the size of the free pattern you want for your project.

Hat Base: using black yarn

Use Easy Peasy Crochet Beanie Size of your choice

Once you have completed your beanie for the base you are ready to transform your beanie into a Pingu the penguin hat. :)

Hat Trim: using orange contrast color yarn
Attach orange yarn to last round worked in beanie where you left off with a sl st in to the st.  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in 1st st and each of the st around. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. Fasten off.

Beak back (*optional*): using orange yarn
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2 before placing the following st in to the circle in this order: (1 hdc, 4 sc, 3 hdc, 4 sc, 2 hdc). Pull ovalish circle closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (14 st total)
Round 2: Ch 2 before placing 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the following 4 st, 2 hdc in each of the next 3 st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 st and 2 hdc in each of the remaining 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (20 hdc)
Round 3: Ch 2 before placing 1 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the following 4 st, *2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next st* repeating two more times, place 1 hdc in each of the following 4 st, repeat * twice and place 2 hdc in the last remaining st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (26 hdc)
Fasten off and place to side until needed in assembly.

The above feature size works well on toddler to adult male sized hats.  For smaller features on toddler hat and all infant sized hats, use the following instructions instead:
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2 before placing the following st in to the circle in this order: (1 hdc, 4 sc, 3 hdc, 4 sc, 2 hdc). Pull ovalish circle closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (14 st total)
Round 2: Ch 2 before placing 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the following 4 st, 2 hdc in each of the next 3 st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 st and 2 hdc in each of the remaining 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st stin round. (20 st total)
Fasten off and place to side until needed in assembly.

Beak: using orange yarn
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2 before placing the following st in to the circle in this order: (1 hdc, 4 sc, 3 hdc, 4 sc, 2 hdc). Pull ovalish circle closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (14 st total)
Round 2: Ch 2 before placing 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the following 4 st, 2 hdc in each of the next 3 st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 st and 2 hdc in each of the remaining 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (20 st total)
Round 3: Ch 2 before placing 1 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the following 4 st, *2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next st* repeating two more times, place 1 hdc in each of the following 4 st, repeat * twice and place 2 hdc in the last remaining st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (26 hdc)
Round 4: Ch 2 before placing 1 hdc in 1st st and 1 hdc in each of the following 25 st around. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round (26 hdc)
Round 5: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in 1st st and 1 sc in each of the following 25 st around. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (26 sc)
Leave a long enough of yarn tail to be able to secure your beak in place on beanie hat during assembly and attach the beak back if you chose that optional step above. Cut yarn and pull through last loop. Place this piece to the side until needed in assembly.

The above feature size works well on toddler to adult male sized hats.  For smaller features on toddler hat and all infant sized hats, use the following instructions instead:
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2 before placing the following st in to the circle in this order: (1 hdc, 4 sc, 3 hdc, 4 sc, 2 hdc). Pull ovalish circle closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (14 st total)
Round 2: Ch 2 before placing 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in each of the following 4 st, 2 hdc in each of the next 3 st, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 st and 2 hdc in each of the remaining 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (20 hdc)
Round 3-4: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in 1st st and 1 sc in each of the following 19 st around. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (20 sc)
Leave a long enough of yarn tail to be able to secure your beak in place on beanie hat during assembly and attach the beak back if you chose that optional step above. Cut yarn and pull through last loop. Place this piece to the side until needed in assembly.

Eye Whites (Make 2): using white yarn
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2 before placing 10 hdc in to the circle. Pull circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (10 hdc )
Round 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in 1st st and 2 sc in each of the following 9 st around. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (20 sc)
Before cutting yarn, make sure you leave a long enough yarn tail to be able to secure the eye white on to the beanie hat during the assembly process. Once length left, cut yarn and pull through last loop on hook. Place to side until needed.
Repeat process for second eye white.

The above feature size works well on toddler to adult male sized hats.  For smaller features on toddler hat and all infant sized hats, use the following instructions instead:
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2 before placing 8 hdc in to the circle. Pull circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (8 hdc )
Before cutting yarn, make sure you leave a long enough yarn tail to be able to secure the eye white on to the beanie hat during the assembly process. Once length left, cut yarn and pull through last loop on hook. Place to side until needed.
Repeat process for second eye white.

Eye Pupils (Make 2): using black yarn
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2 before placing 8 hdc in to the circle. Pull circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (8 hdc )
Leave a long enough of yarn tail to be able to secure the eye pupils on to the eye white during assembly before cutting yarn and pulling through last loop on hook. Place the finished eye pupil to the side until needed in assembly steps below.
Repeat process for second eye pupil.

The above feature size works well on toddler to adult male sized hats.  For smaller features on toddler hat and all infant sized hats, use the following instructions instead:
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in to the circle. Pull circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (6 sc )
Leave a long enough of yarn tail to be able to secure the eye pupils on to the eye white during assembly before cutting yarn and pulling through last loop on hook. Place the finished eye pupil to the side until needed in assembly steps below.
Repeat process for second eye pupil.

Eye Assembly (Make 2): requires two completed eye whites and two eye pupils
Taking the yarn tail left on one eye pupil  use your yarn needle to sew it in desired location over one eye white.  You can reference my pictures to see how I placed mine if you need guidance on this.  Once the the eye pupil is securely in place where you desire it, pull the yarn to the back side of the eye white and fasten off.  Repeat for second eye pupil and eye white.  You should still have one long white yarn tail left on each eye, do not cut this off as it will be used in following finishing steps and hat assembly.

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern 1

Finishing steps and assembly:
The following steps require these completed hat features:
1- finished beanie
1- beak back (optional)
1- beak piece
2- eye whites
2- eye pupils
Now that you have finished making the pieces for this hat you are ready to assemble it into your own Pingu hat!
Starting with the beak piece and beak back to assemble (Note: if decided to skip this optional piece, skip to next step).
Line up the beak back so that it will cover the opening on your beak piece stitch to stitch. Using the yarn tail left on your beak piece, use your yarn needle to sew them together.  You want to stop 2/3 to 3/4 of the way around to lightly stuff the beak piece with the fiberfill (or desired stuffing of your choice) before closing it completely. When you reach desired amount you might want to take out a little bit more due to the rounded shape hat takes when worn.
If you chose to skip the beak back part, just stuff beak piece as you sew it directly on to the hat.You want to stop 2/3 to 3/4 of the way around to lightly stuff the beak with the fiberfill (or desired stuffing of your choice) before closing it completely.
Once you have done first step of beak piece, use the remaining yarn tail and yarn needle to sew the assembled beak in the desired location on hat. I choose to center mine slightly above the bottom of the hat.  When beak is securely in place, pull yarn to the inside of the hat.  On features that stand out on hats I tend to run another quick set of knots or stitches on the inside of the hat to reinforce the joining but it isn’t required. (Yes I’m paranoid of unraveling projects..)   After doing that, fasten off.
Next up, take the yarn tail left on one assembled eye and use the yarn needle to sew the eye in place on the face just above the attached beak. You can reference my pictures to see how I placed it on my hat if you want some guidance on that.  When your eye is securely in place bring yarn to the inside of the hat and fasten off. Repeat process for second eye.
Now take the time to look over your finished hat to make sure you didn’t miss any loose ends, yarn tails etc.  If you find any, go ahead and fasten them off now.  That’s it. All done!
I hope you enjoyed this pattern, if you have any questions please let meknow. Happy crafting! :)

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern

Here are some additional pictures I have taken to show how this Pingu the Penguin hat looks worn once it is completed from different angles:

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern 3

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern 4

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern 5

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern 6

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern 7

Pingu the Penguin Character Hat Crochet Pattern 8

Want more free patterns? Follow cRAfterChick on Facebook or Pinterest to get updates on patterns as they are added.

Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!

Angry Birds’ Minion Green Pig Character Hat Crochet Pattern

Angry Birds' Minion Green Pig Character Hat Crochet Pattern_ a chick crafting through Rheumatoid Arthritis cRAfterChick.com

Angry Birds’ Minion Green Pig Character Hat Crochet Pattern

free video game character hat crochet pattern from cRAfterChick.com

Angry Birds’ Minion Green Pig Character Hat Free Crochet Pattern long image

Oh those wacky cute green pigs that mock me on failed levels of Angry Birds… how I love / hate thee.. I made this character hat design for a child that is a big Angry Birds fan and kind of love how it turned out. :) I will be working on making most of the game characters probably for Christmas gifts this year as it has been a big request from the kids. There is no stuffing required for this hat and it is advanced beginner friendly. I didn’t have a bright yellowish green color for the nose piece so I substituted a frosted green yarn instead (which has been driving me nuts). OCD crafting at it’s finest folks. :)

Don’t know Angry Birds? Check them out here.
Here is one of the pictures I used as inspiration for this minion pig character hat:

Angry-Birds-Green-Minion-Pig-inspiration-picture-for-crochet-character-hat-429x280

Project requires:
Medium to bright green yarn for beanie main color
(I use a lot of Red Heart Saver yarn but any medium to normal weight yarn will do)
Light or pale green for contrast color trim and nose front (I used a muted frosted green color)
Black yarn for eye pupils and nostrils
White yarn for eye whites
“J” hook (6.0 mm)
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
dc – double crochet (US)
hdc – half double crochet (US)

Angry Birds' Minion Green Pig Character Hat Crochet Pattern 4

Pattern Instructions:
*Note: This project is worked in the round on the base of a magic ring. If you do not know how to do this, please see tutorial here from: yarntomato on CrochetMe
The hat in this picture is made with my free Easy Peasy Youth Sized (Age 3-10 years old) Double Crochet Beanie  Hat Pattern which you can find  here as a foundation for the project.
Want it in another size? No worries. Head over to Easy Peasy All Family Sizes Free Double Crochet Beanie Patterns to select the size of the free pattern you want for your project.

Hat Base: in main color purple yarn 
Use Easy Peasy Crochet Beanie Size of your choice
 Once you have completed your beanie for the base you are ready to transform your beanie into a minion pig hat. :)

Trim: using contrast lighter green color
Attach your contrast green color to where you left off in the last round of your beanie hat with a sl st. This will be added as an additional round for the contrast trim.
Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in 1st st and 1 sc in each of the st around. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in the round. Fasten off.

Larger Left Eye: using white yarn
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2 before making 12 dc in to the circle. Pull the circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in the round. (12 dc)
Before cutting yarn, make sure you leave a yarn tail long enough to be able to sew this eye in place on to the beanie hat during assembly steps. Cut yarn, pull through last loop on hook and place to side until needed.

The feature above works well with toddler to adult male sized hats. For newborn to 12 month old hats or if you prefer smaller features on toddler sized hats, do the following steps instead of those above for your hat:  
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2 before making 10 hdc in to the circle. Pull the circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in the round. (10 hdc)
Before cutting yarn, make sure you leave a yarn tail long enough to be able to sew this eye in place on to the beanie hat during assembly steps.  Cut yarn, pull through last loop on hook and place to side until needed.

Smaller Right Eye: using white yarn
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2 before making 10 dc in to the circle. Pull the circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in the round. (10 dc)
Before cutting yarn, make sure you leave a yarn tail long enough to be able to sew this eye in place on to the beanie hat during assembly steps. Cut yarn, pull through last loop on hook and place to side until needed.

The feature above works well with toddler to adult male sized hats. For newborn to 12 month old hats or if you prefer smaller features on toddler sized hats, do the following steps instead of those above for your hat:
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2 before making  8 hdc in to the circle. Pull the circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in the round. (8 hdc)
Before cutting yarn, make sure you leave a yarn tail long enough to be able to sew this eye in place on to the beanie hat during assembly steps. Cut yarn, pull through last loop on hook and place to side until needed.

Eye Pupils (Make 2): Using black yarn
Ch 3. Sl st in the 3rd ch from hook.
Cut yarn leaving a short yarn tail long enough to sew the eye pupil in place on eye white during assembly. Pull yarn though last loop on hook and place to side until needed.
Repeat process for second eye pupil.

The feature above works well with toddler to adult male sized hats. For newborn to 12 month old hats or if you prefer smaller features on toddler sized hats, do the following steps instead of those above for your hat:
For this feature just cut a length of yarn  long enough to knot twice and secure on to eye white during assembly.  Take yarn length and make a double knot in center of yarn twice. Now place to side until needed in finishing steps.   Repeat for second eye pupil.

Eyebrows (Make 2): Using black yarn
Make a chain of 5.
Cut yarn leaving a yarn tail long enough to sew the eyebrow in place above eyes on beanie hat during assembly. Pull yarn though last loop on hook and place to side until needed.
Repeat process for second eyebrow.

The feature above works well with toddler to adult male sized hats. For newborn to 12 month old hats or if you prefer smaller features on toddler sized hats, do the following steps instead of those above for your hat:
For this feature just cut a length of yarn long enough to stitch your eyebrow on in desired place during assembly and place to side until needed in finishing steps. Repeat for second eyebrow.

Larger Left Nostril: Using black yarn
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before making 5 sc in to the circle. Pull the circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in the round. (5 sc)
Leave a yarn tail long enough to sew this nostril in place on the nose/ snout piece during assembly before cutting yarn and pulling through last loop on hook. Place to side until needed in finishing steps.

The feature above works well with toddler to adult male sized hats. For newborn to 12 month old hats or if you prefer smaller features on toddler sized hats, do the following steps instead of those above for your hat:
Ch 3. Sl st in the 3rd ch from hook.
Cut yarn leaving a short yarn tail long enough to sew the nostril in place on nose during assembly. Pull yarn though last loop on hook and place to side until needed.

Smaller Right Nostril: Using black yarn
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before making 3 sc in to the circle. Pull the circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in the round. (3 sc)
Leave a yarn tail long enough to sew this nostril in place on the nose/ snout piece during assembly before cutting yarn and pulling through last loop on hook. Place to side until needed in finishing steps.

The feature above works well with toddler to adult male sized hats. For newborn to 12 month old hats or if you prefer smaller features on toddler sized hats, do the following steps instead of those above for your hat:
For this feature just cut a length of yarn  long enough to knot twice and secure on to nose / snout piece during assembly.  Take yarn length and make a double knot in center of yarn twice. Now place to side until needed in finishing steps. 

Inner Front Ear: Using black yarn and main color green yarn 
Round 1: With black yarn, in a magic circle, ch 2 before placing 8 hdc in circle. Pull circle closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (8 hdc) Fasten off black yarn.
Round 2: Attach main color green yarn to where you left off in previous round with a sl st. Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in the next 5 st, and 1 sc in the last 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round beforefastening off. (14 hdc)
Repeat process for second inner (front) ear piece.

The feature above works well with toddler to adult male sized hats. For newborn to 12 month old hats or if you prefer smaller features on toddler sized hats, do the following steps instead of those above for your hat:
Round 1: With black yarn, in a magic circle, ch 1 before placing  8 sc in circle. Pull circle closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (8 sc) Fasten off black yarn.
Round 2: Attach main color green yarn to where you left off in previous round with a sl st. Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in the next 5 st, and 1 sc in the last 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round before fastening off. (14 hdc)
Repeat process for second inner (front) ear piece.

Outer (Back) Ear Part and Ear Assembly: using inner front earpieces and main color green yarn
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2 before placing 8 hdc in circle. Pull circle closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (8 hdc)
Round 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in the next 5 st, and 1 sc in the last 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (14 hdc)
Round 3: Ch 1 and turn so the good side of your piece is facing away from you. Now place a completed inner ear front in front of the ear back your are working on. This round will be worked through both pieces at once so line up your stitches. Make a sl st in 1st 2 st ( 1 sc st from previous round) before making *2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next st* repeating * 5 more times over next 10 st, and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (20 sc)
Leave a long yarn tail long enough to be able to sew this assembled ear in place on top of your beanie hat before cutting yarn and pulling through last loop on hook.  Place to side until ready to attach to beanie during assembly.  Repeat process for second ear.

The feature above works well with toddler to adult male sized hats. For newborn to 12 month old hats or if you prefer smaller features on toddler sized hats, do the following steps instead of those above for your hat:
Round 1: With black yarn, in a magic circle, ch 1 before placing  8 sc in circle. Pull circle closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (8 sc) Fasten off black yarn.
Round 2: Attach main color green yarn to where you left off in previous round with a sl st. Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in the next 5 st, and 1 sc in the last 2 st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (14 hdc)
Round 3: Ch 1 and turn so the good side of your piece is facing away from you. Now place a completed inner ear front in front of the ear back your are working on. This round will be worked through both pieces at once so line up your stitches. Make a sl st in 1st 2 st ( 1 sc st from previous round) before making *2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next st* repeating * 5 more times over next 10 st, and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (20 sc)
Leave a long yarn tail long enough to be able to sew this assembled ear in place on top of your beanie hat before cutting yarn and pulling through last loop on hook.  Place to side until ready to attach to beanie during assembly. Repeat for second ear.

Nose/Snout Piece: using contrast green yarn
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing the following st in the circle in this order: (2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 3 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc). Pull ovalish circle closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (12 st total)
Round 2: Ch 2 before placing 1 dc in 1st 2 st, 2 dc in next 3 st, 1 dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next 3 st and 1 dc in last st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (18 dc total)
Round 3: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in 1st 3 st, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* repeating * 2 more times, 1 sc in next 3 st, repeat * 3 times and 1 sc in last st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (24 sc total)
Before cutting yarn, leave a yarn length long enough to be able to sew the nose / snout piece in place on your beanie hat during assembly and pull through last loop on hook.  Place to side until ready to attach during finishing steps.

The feature above works well with toddler to adult male sized hats. For newborn to 12 month old hats or if you prefer smaller features on toddler sized hats, do the following steps instead of those above for your hat:
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing the following st in the circle in this order: (2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 3 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc). Pull ovalish circle closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (12 st total)
Round 2: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next 3 st, 1 sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next 3 st and 1 sc in last st. Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (18 sc)
Before cutting yarn, leave a yarn length long enough to be able to sew the nose / snout piece in place on your beanie hat during assembly and pull through last loop on hook.  Place to side until ready to attach during finishing steps.

Angry Birds' Minion Green Pig Character Hat Crochet Pattern 3

Finishing off and hat assembly:
The following steps require that you have assembled all the above mentioned pieces. You should have:
1- larger eye white
1- smaller eye white
2- eye pupils
2- eyebrows
1- larger nostril
1- small nostril
1- nose / snout piece
2- assembled ears
Taking the tail from the larger of the two eye pupils, use your yarn needle to sew this nostril in place on the left side of your nose/ snout piece. Once sewn in place, pull yarn to the backside of your nose/snout piece and fasten off. Repeat this process with the smaller of the two eye pupils placing it on the right side of the nose/ snout piece.
Now take the yarn tail left on the assembled nose / snout piece and using the  yarn needle sew this piece on the middle bottom area of your beanie hat. You can see my pictures to see how I placed it on my own hat. Once fully secure on hat, pull yarn to the inside of the hat and fasten off.
Taking a yarn tail from one eye pupil and your yarn needle sew the pupil in place on to your larger eye white. You can play around with the placement to what you like the best. I like mine to be looking in different directions but it is your own preference. Once pupil is sewn on, pull yarn to the backside of the eye white and fasten off.
Taking the white yarn tail left on your now assembled larger eye, sew it in place on the left side of your attached nose / snout on the beanie hat with the yarn needle. Once eye is secured in place, pull the yarn to the inside of the beanie hat and fasten off.
Taking a yarn tail from one eye pupil and your yarn needle sew the pupil in place on to your smaller eye white. You can play around with the placement to what you like the best. I like mine to be looking in different directions but it is your own preference. Once pupil is sewn on, pull yarn to the backside of the eye white and fasten off.
Taking the white yarn tail left on your now assembled smaller eye, sew it in place on the right side of your attached nose / snout on the beanie hat with your yarn needle. Once eye is secured in place, pull the yarn to the inside of the beanie hat and fasten off.
Now that your eyes are attached you can place your eyebrows above each. To do so take your yarn needle and the tail from one eyebrow chain and sew it in desired location and shape over one eye. One sewn on, pull yarn to inside of hat and fasten off. Repeat this process for second eyebrow over the other eye.
Now take the yarn tail left on one assembled ear and using your yarn needle sew the ear in place with the black ear front facing forward on the beanie on the left side of the hat. On features like this I like to run a second row of double knots or stitches on the inside of the beanie hat to secure them in place but it isn’t necessary. Once fully secure on top of the beanie hat, pull yarn to inside of beanie hat and fasten off. For second ear, you want to place this ear just to the right of the center of your hat instead of in a mirror image placement like most hats with ears to make this character hat. Attach with the same instructions as first ear.
Now take the time to double check over your finished hat for any tails or loose ends you might of missed in process just in case. If you find any, fasten them off now. All done. One super cool Angry Bird minion pig hat for the Angry Birds fan in your life.

Angry Birds' Minion Green Pig Character Hat Crochet Pattern

Angry Birds’ Minion Green Pig Character Hat Free Crochet Pattern

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