Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Free crochet pattern by cRAfterChick.com

Do you Funko? I sure do.

This Amigurumi doll crochet pattern was born out of my love for the Funko collectibles and one of my ultimate fandoms.. Disney.  I thought he would be a perfect first start on my army of Funko inspired dolls.  

Jungle Book's Mowgli Funko Collectible

 

You can find the Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern here.

Stay tuned in to see who else will be joining him…

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll Crochet (side front view)

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Notes

Project requires:
Medium to dark tan flesh tone yarn
Black yarn
Orange yarn
(I use a lot of Red Heart Saver or Caron One Pound skein yarn but any medium to normal 4 weight yarn will do)
“G” to “H” hook (4.0-5.0 mm) – I actually used my preferred Clover hook which is inbetween a 7 (4.5 mm) and ended up with doll, once hair attached at just over 11 inches tall
Safety eyes (x2)
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
BLO – back loops only (US)

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Free Crochet Pattern by cRAfterChick.com

Legs (x2)- using tan flesh colored yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4 (Done in BLO): Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st BLO around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 7 times, 1 sc in last 5 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (17 st)
Rd 6: Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 4 times, 1 sc in last 4 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (13 st)
Rd 7-16: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in the top of 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Rd 17: Ch 1, before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in tip of the 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Leave yarn with long enough tail to secure on to the Mowgli’s body when ready to sew on before cutting yarn and pull through.
Lightly stuff legs with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.
Repeat for second leg and put to side until ready to assemble.

Arms (x2) –
using tan to dark flesh tone yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (9 sc)
Rds 3- 15: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc)
Rd 16: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc) Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the arm on to the Mowgli’s body when ready to in assembly process. Pull through stitch.
Lightly stuff arms with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.
Repeat above for second arm and place to side until ready to assemble.

Body- using tan to dark flesh tone yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (12 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (24 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rds 6-15: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rd 16: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 20: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 sc)
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Stuff body to a fullness but with some give still for hugs and to be able to get your needle through when attaching limbs.
Put to side until assembly.

Head- using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (32 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rds 6-17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
(This is normally a good time to put in the safety eyes as it gets narrower but it’s not impossible to do once head is finished as it has an open bottom. I do sometimes leave it until almost done as well.) 
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (32 st)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 20: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (16 st)
Rd 21: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 st).
Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the head on to the doll’s body when ready to in assembly’s process. Pull through stitch.

Bottoms- using orange yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (12 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (24 sc)
Rds 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rds 6-11: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rd 12: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st worked. (36 sc)
Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the bottoms on to the Mowgli’s body when ready to during the assembly process. Pull through stitch.

Hair / Wig Piece- using black yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (32 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rds 6-7: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rd 8: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc) Leave yarn tail long enough to secure hair / wig piece on top of doll’s head before cutting yarn and pulling through. Put to side until ready to assemble.

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll Assembly Pieces

Mowgli Assembly:

You should have:
– 1 head
– 1 body
– 2 legs
– 2 arms
– 1 bottoms piece
– 1 hairpiece

Check his body for stuffing level. If too floppy add a bit more. If hard, remove a bit or needle will not pass through easily.

First we will sew the bottoms on to body by using a yarn needle and yarn tail left on the bottoms. One secured, pull yarn tail to inside of body and cut.

Take one leg and check stuffing level, if good, use yarn needle and tail to attach to bottom of body in desired position. Once sewn in position, repeat with second leg. ( You can see my pictures for location I placed mine for better huggability.)

Next up are Mowgli’s arms. Check the amount of stuffing in arms. Once ready, take yarn tails and secure arm on side of doll until firmly in place. Fasten off. Repeat with second arm on other side.

Before you attach the head, make sure you have attached safety eyes (if you want them) or stitched on your facework. I just did a few stitches in and out over two round spaces to make the nose. *note I have no sewing talent*

Take the tail on your wig / hair piece and yarn needle to sew the hair piece on top of the head in place. This is what you will be attaching his yarn “hair” to. When securely in place, fasten off.

Once you have that ready, stuff the head to desired amount. Check it over and body again as this will be your last chance to stuff it. When all done, use yarn needle and yarn tail on head to sew securely in place on top of opening of body. Fasten off when done.

Sewing last round and next round out will make less wobbly at the neck area when you are working with lots of hair.

All that is left is the really fun part… I laugh. I find this oddly meditative at times watching tv. Basically you are going to make lengths of yarn and just keep cutting them to pull through stitches on your wig/ hair piece to lay the way you want to mimic hair. You will bend each strand in half, take your crochet hook, pull it through and then pull the ends through that loop you pulled through. For each strand of hair. It sounds uber complicated if you have no idea what I am talking about but it really is not. Here is a great tutorial on doing this by Vone Knits on Youtube. (I am working on adding a quick tutorial section once video is set up.) :)

Once you get all the hair in, just part down the middle, cut the bangs to a point in the middle. Then bingo. Mowgli. 😀

Okay this little guy was having some major hair cut hair shock going on. lol

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll Crochet (front side view)

 

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll Crochet (rear view)

 

 

 

<3 cRAfterChick

FUNKO INSPIRED AMIGURUMI DOLLS BANNER

Want more free patterns? Follow cRAfterChick on Facebook or Pinterest to get updates on patterns as they are added.

Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

This pattern was born out of love for Funko pop collectibles and my growing addiction to collecting them. Often I wanted plush dolls of them but to be honest they never have the characters I like.

So what happens when you can’t find something but you are crafty and geeky? Yep. You make it yourself. So now I have a small army expanding and overtaking my bedroom slowly but surely. It’s pretty awesome to be honest.  I have mock-ups for some of my favorite fandoms and characters swirling around in my head.  What can you imagine?

But we all start somewhere… here is the base for the Funko inspired dolls I have been created. Shown completed here as Mowgli (because naked dolls are oddly disturbing to me). If you can work in the round and do single crochet, you can make this doll. No fancy stitches and he is hug approved.  My dolls done with when Medium (4- weight Caron one-pounder) yarn and a H hook came to just over 11 inches tall when completed.

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Free Crochet Pattern from cRAfterChick.com

Project requires:
Flesh tone yarn 
Safety eyes (x2) or black yarn to stitch on eyes
(I use a lot of Red Heart Saver or Caron One Pound skein yarn but any medium to normal 4 weight yarn will do)
“G” to “H” hook (4.0-5.0 mm) – I actually used my preferred Clover hook which is inbetween a 7 (4.5 mm) and ended up with doll, once hair attached at just over 11 inches tall
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
BLO – back loops only (US)

Basic Funko Crochet Doll as Jungle Book's Mowgli

 

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Notes

Legs (x) – using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1:  In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2:  Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4 (Done in BLO):  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st BLO around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 5:  Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 7 times, 1 sc in last 5 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (17 st)
Rd 6:  Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 4 times, 1 sc in last 4 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (13 st)
Rds 7-16:  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in the top of 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Rd 17:  Ch 1, before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in tip of the 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Leave yarn with long enough tail to secure on to the dolls body when ready to sew on before cutting yarn and pull through.
Lightly stuff legs with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.  
Repeat for second leg and put to side until ready to assemble.

Arms (x2) –  using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1:  In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (9 sc)
Rds 3- 15:  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc)
Rd 16: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc) Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the arm on to the doll’s body when ready to in assembly’s process. Pull through stitch.
Lightly stuff arms with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.
Repeat above for second arm and place to side until ready to assemble.  

Body-  using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1:  In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2:  Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (12 sc)
Rd 3:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 4:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked  (24 sc)
Rd 5:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rds 6-15:  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rd 16:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st,  sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 20:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 sc)
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Stuff body to a fullness but with some give still for hugs and to be able to get your needle through when attaching limbs.
Put to side until assembly.

Head-  using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1:  In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2:  Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked  (32 sc)
Rd 5:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rds 6-17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
(This is normally a good time to put in the safety eyes as it gets narrower but it’s not impossible to do once head is finished as it has an open bottom. I do sometimes leave it until almost done as well. )
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (32 st)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 20: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (16 st)
Rd 21: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 st).
Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the head on to the doll’s body when ready to in assembly’s process. Pull through stitch.

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Pieces to Assemble

Doll Assembly:
You should have:

  • 1 doll head
  • 1 doll body
  • 2 doll legs
  • 2 doll arms

I normally start with the legs and work my way up.

Check your stuffing to make sure desired firmness before taking a yarn needle and the yarn tail on one leg use it to fasten your doll’s leg in desired location on body. (You can see my pictures to see how I placed mine to reflect the Funko characters.)  Once done, repeat with second leg.

You are then going to repeat process with the dolls arms. Check for stuffing firmness. Not packed tight but not deflated and sew in place. Pull yarn tail to inside and cut off.

Now we come to the head. There are a couple of things you want to do here before you attach the head. This pattern is for the basic so I will stick to most important but I do want to let you know it is important to stop here if you want to do any additionally embroidery on face, coloring etc before head is attached. It makes it much easier.

If you have your eyes in place, head stuffed and are ready to go, move on to this step. Take your yarn tail from the head and yarn needle to secure your head in desired position on top of the opening of the doll body.  

To make heads less floppy when doing large hair, I attach the joining and run another round out on the head.

There is your doll. Feel free to decorate it, dress, add hair, clothing, change colors up. However you wish.

I have a small army that I have been working on that includes characters from Marvel, video games and Disney. I am pretty excited to share them with you when done. So keep tuned and please drop and share your creations from the pattern base. I would love to see what you create with it. 

<3 cRAfterChick

FUNKO INSPIRED AMIGURUMI DOLLS BANNER

Want more free patterns? Follow cRAfterChick on Facebook or Pinterest to get updates on patterns as they are added.

Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!