Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Free crochet pattern by cRAfterChick.com

Do you Funko? I sure do.

This Amigurumi doll crochet pattern was born out of my love for the Funko collectibles and one of my ultimate fandoms.. Disney.  I thought he would be a perfect first start on my army of Funko inspired dolls.  

Jungle Book's Mowgli Funko Collectible

 

You can find the Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern here.

Stay tuned in to see who else will be joining him…

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll Crochet (side front view)

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Notes

Project requires:
Medium to dark tan flesh tone yarn
Black yarn
Orange yarn
(I use a lot of Red Heart Saver or Caron One Pound skein yarn but any medium to normal 4 weight yarn will do)
“G” to “H” hook (4.0-5.0 mm) – I actually used my preferred Clover hook which is inbetween a 7 (4.5 mm) and ended up with doll, once hair attached at just over 11 inches tall
Safety eyes (x2)
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
BLO – back loops only (US)

Jungle Book’s Mowgli Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Free Crochet Pattern by cRAfterChick.com

Legs (x2)- using tan flesh colored yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4 (Done in BLO): Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st BLO around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 7 times, 1 sc in last 5 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (17 st)
Rd 6: Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 4 times, 1 sc in last 4 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (13 st)
Rd 7-16: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in the top of 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Rd 17: Ch 1, before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in tip of the 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Leave yarn with long enough tail to secure on to the Mowgli’s body when ready to sew on before cutting yarn and pull through.
Lightly stuff legs with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.
Repeat for second leg and put to side until ready to assemble.

Arms (x2) –
using tan to dark flesh tone yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (9 sc)
Rds 3- 15: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc)
Rd 16: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc) Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the arm on to the Mowgli’s body when ready to in assembly process. Pull through stitch.
Lightly stuff arms with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.
Repeat above for second arm and place to side until ready to assemble.

Body- using tan to dark flesh tone yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (12 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (24 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rds 6-15: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rd 16: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 20: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 sc)
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Stuff body to a fullness but with some give still for hugs and to be able to get your needle through when attaching limbs.
Put to side until assembly.

Head- using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (32 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rds 6-17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
(This is normally a good time to put in the safety eyes as it gets narrower but it’s not impossible to do once head is finished as it has an open bottom. I do sometimes leave it until almost done as well.) 
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (32 st)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 20: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (16 st)
Rd 21: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 st).
Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the head on to the doll’s body when ready to in assembly’s process. Pull through stitch.

Bottoms- using orange yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (12 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (24 sc)
Rds 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rds 6-11: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rd 12: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st worked. (36 sc)
Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the bottoms on to the Mowgli’s body when ready to during the assembly process. Pull through stitch.

Hair / Wig Piece- using black yarn
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (32 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rds 6-7: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rd 8: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc) Leave yarn tail long enough to secure hair / wig piece on top of doll’s head before cutting yarn and pulling through. Put to side until ready to assemble.

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll Assembly Pieces

Mowgli Assembly:

You should have:
– 1 head
– 1 body
– 2 legs
– 2 arms
– 1 bottoms piece
– 1 hairpiece

Check his body for stuffing level. If too floppy add a bit more. If hard, remove a bit or needle will not pass through easily.

First we will sew the bottoms on to body by using a yarn needle and yarn tail left on the bottoms. One secured, pull yarn tail to inside of body and cut.

Take one leg and check stuffing level, if good, use yarn needle and tail to attach to bottom of body in desired position. Once sewn in position, repeat with second leg. ( You can see my pictures for location I placed mine for better huggability.)

Next up are Mowgli’s arms. Check the amount of stuffing in arms. Once ready, take yarn tails and secure arm on side of doll until firmly in place. Fasten off. Repeat with second arm on other side.

Before you attach the head, make sure you have attached safety eyes (if you want them) or stitched on your facework. I just did a few stitches in and out over two round spaces to make the nose. *note I have no sewing talent*

Take the tail on your wig / hair piece and yarn needle to sew the hair piece on top of the head in place. This is what you will be attaching his yarn “hair” to. When securely in place, fasten off.

Once you have that ready, stuff the head to desired amount. Check it over and body again as this will be your last chance to stuff it. When all done, use yarn needle and yarn tail on head to sew securely in place on top of opening of body. Fasten off when done.

Sewing last round and next round out will make less wobbly at the neck area when you are working with lots of hair.

All that is left is the really fun part… I laugh. I find this oddly meditative at times watching tv. Basically you are going to make lengths of yarn and just keep cutting them to pull through stitches on your wig/ hair piece to lay the way you want to mimic hair. You will bend each strand in half, take your crochet hook, pull it through and then pull the ends through that loop you pulled through. For each strand of hair. It sounds uber complicated if you have no idea what I am talking about but it really is not. Here is a great tutorial on doing this by Vone Knits on Youtube. (I am working on adding a quick tutorial section once video is set up.) :)

Once you get all the hair in, just part down the middle, cut the bangs to a point in the middle. Then bingo. Mowgli. 😀

Okay this little guy was having some major hair cut hair shock going on. lol

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll Crochet (front side view)

 

Jungle Book's Mowgli Amigurumi Doll Crochet (rear view)

 

 

 

<3 cRAfterChick

FUNKO INSPIRED AMIGURUMI DOLLS BANNER

Want more free patterns? Follow cRAfterChick on Facebook or Pinterest to get updates on patterns as they are added.

Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern

This pattern was born out of love for Funko pop collectibles and my growing addiction to collecting them. Often I wanted plush dolls of them but to be honest they never have the characters I like.

So what happens when you can’t find something but you are crafty and geeky? Yep. You make it yourself. So now I have a small army expanding and overtaking my bedroom slowly but surely. It’s pretty awesome to be honest.  I have mock-ups for some of my favorite fandoms and characters swirling around in my head.  What can you imagine?

But we all start somewhere… here is the base for the Funko inspired dolls I have been created. Shown completed here as Mowgli (because naked dolls are oddly disturbing to me). If you can work in the round and do single crochet, you can make this doll. No fancy stitches and he is hug approved.  My dolls done with when Medium (4- weight Caron one-pounder) yarn and a H hook came to just over 11 inches tall when completed.

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Free Crochet Pattern from cRAfterChick.com

Project requires:
Flesh tone yarn 
Safety eyes (x2) or black yarn to stitch on eyes
(I use a lot of Red Heart Saver or Caron One Pound skein yarn but any medium to normal 4 weight yarn will do)
“G” to “H” hook (4.0-5.0 mm) – I actually used my preferred Clover hook which is inbetween a 7 (4.5 mm) and ended up with doll, once hair attached at just over 11 inches tall
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
BLO – back loops only (US)

Basic Funko Crochet Doll as Jungle Book's Mowgli

 

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Notes

Legs (x) – using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1:  In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2:  Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4 (Done in BLO):  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st BLO around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 5:  Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 7 times, 1 sc in last 5 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (17 st)
Rd 6:  Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 4 times, 1 sc in last 4 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (13 st)
Rds 7-16:  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in the top of 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Rd 17:  Ch 1, before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in tip of the 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Leave yarn with long enough tail to secure on to the dolls body when ready to sew on before cutting yarn and pull through.
Lightly stuff legs with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.  
Repeat for second leg and put to side until ready to assemble.

Arms (x2) –  using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1:  In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (9 sc)
Rds 3- 15:  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc)
Rd 16: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc) Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the arm on to the doll’s body when ready to in assembly’s process. Pull through stitch.
Lightly stuff arms with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.
Repeat above for second arm and place to side until ready to assemble.  

Body-  using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1:  In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2:  Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (12 sc)
Rd 3:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 4:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked  (24 sc)
Rd 5:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rds 6-15:  Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rd 16:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st,  sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 20:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 sc)
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Stuff body to a fullness but with some give still for hugs and to be able to get your needle through when attaching limbs.
Put to side until assembly.

Head-  using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1:  In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2:  Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked  (32 sc)
Rd 5:  Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rds 6-17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
(This is normally a good time to put in the safety eyes as it gets narrower but it’s not impossible to do once head is finished as it has an open bottom. I do sometimes leave it until almost done as well. )
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (32 st)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 20: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (16 st)
Rd 21: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 st).
Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the head on to the doll’s body when ready to in assembly’s process. Pull through stitch.

Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Pieces to Assemble

Doll Assembly:
You should have:

  • 1 doll head
  • 1 doll body
  • 2 doll legs
  • 2 doll arms

I normally start with the legs and work my way up.

Check your stuffing to make sure desired firmness before taking a yarn needle and the yarn tail on one leg use it to fasten your doll’s leg in desired location on body. (You can see my pictures to see how I placed mine to reflect the Funko characters.)  Once done, repeat with second leg.

You are then going to repeat process with the dolls arms. Check for stuffing firmness. Not packed tight but not deflated and sew in place. Pull yarn tail to inside and cut off.

Now we come to the head. There are a couple of things you want to do here before you attach the head. This pattern is for the basic so I will stick to most important but I do want to let you know it is important to stop here if you want to do any additionally embroidery on face, coloring etc before head is attached. It makes it much easier.

If you have your eyes in place, head stuffed and are ready to go, move on to this step. Take your yarn tail from the head and yarn needle to secure your head in desired position on top of the opening of the doll body.  

To make heads less floppy when doing large hair, I attach the joining and run another round out on the head.

There is your doll. Feel free to decorate it, dress, add hair, clothing, change colors up. However you wish.

I have a small army that I have been working on that includes characters from Marvel, video games and Disney. I am pretty excited to share them with you when done. So keep tuned and please drop and share your creations from the pattern base. I would love to see what you create with it. 

<3 cRAfterChick

FUNKO INSPIRED AMIGURUMI DOLLS BANNER

Want more free patterns? Follow cRAfterChick on Facebook or Pinterest to get updates on patterns as they are added.

Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!

Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern

Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern_ a chick crafting through Rheumatoid Arthritis cRAfterChick.com

Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern

free character hat crochet pattern by cRAfterChick.com

Lego Man Character Hat Free Crochet Pattern long

My nephews are mildly (okay more than mildly) obsessed with all things Lego. Anything Lego is a win so for my oldest nephews birthday I decided to make him a Lego Man hat and a few other Lego inspired crochet projects as gifts.  His face when he saw the hats were priceless. I even added a new category to cRAfterChick.com so that I had a place to see all the Lego inspired projects.  You can check them all out here once they are added:  Lego Inspired.
Want to learn more about Legos, check them out here.
Want to get some Legos? Check here.
Here is the inspiration picture I used when designing this hat to make it look like a Lego Man. :)

legomanhead_large

Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern Notes

Project requires:
Gold to bright yellow yarn for beanie and ears
(I use a lot of Red Heart Saver yarn but any medium to normal weight yarn will do)
“J” hook (6.0 mm)
Black yarn for features
Small amount of white yarn for light spots on eyes
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends
Small amount of fiberfill stuffing for head topper piece

Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
dc – double crochet (US)
hdc – half double crochet (US)
BLO – work in back loops of stitches only
Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern (22)

Pattern Instructions:

*Note: This project is worked in the round on the base of a magic ring. If you do not know how to do this, please see tutorial here from: yarntomato on CrochetMe

The hat in this picture is made with my free Easy Peasy Youth Sized (Age 3-10 years old) Double Crochet Beanie  Hat Pattern which you can find  here as a foundation for the project. Want it in another size? No worries. Head over to Easy Peasy All Family Sizes Free Double Crochet Beanie Patterns to select the size of the free pattern you want for your project.

Hat Base: using gold to bright yellow yarn

Use Easy Peasy Crochet Beanie Size of your choice

Once you have completed your beanie for the base you are ready to transform your beanie into a Lego Man hat!

Lego Topper Base (*optional*): using gold  to bright yellow main colored yarn
This feature is an optional step I highly recommend.  Why? This will keep your stuffing in the topper and prevent it from leaking  in to the hat when it stretches while being worn and extends the life of the hat. It irritates me so I prefer to use this step to make my future hat wearer more happy in the long run. :) You can skip to next section ifyou choose not to make this piece.
Round 1: In a magic adjustable circle, ch 2 before placing 10 hdc into the circle.  Pull circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. Note: Beginning ch 2 does not count as st in pattern. (10 hdc)
Round 2: Ch 2 before placing 2 hdc in 1st st st and 2 hdc in each of the following 9 st around.  Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (20 hdc)
Round 3: Ch 2 before *placing 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next st*, repeating * pattern for remaining 18 st around.  Sl st in top of 1st st in round. (30 hdc)
Fasten off and place to side until needed in assembly steps.

The above features work great on toddler, youth, teen, women and men sized beanie hats. If you are making this hat in one of the infant sizes (Newborn to 12 mos) or prefer smaller features on toddler sized hat, follow the following instructions than those above:
Round 1: In a magic adjustable circle, ch 2 before placing 10 hdc into the circle.  Pull circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. Note: Beginning ch 2 does not count as st in pattern. (10 hdc)
Round 2: Ch 2 before placing 2 hdc in 1st st st and 2 hdc in eachof the following 9 st around.  Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (20 hdc)
Fasten off and place to side until needed in assembly steps.

Lego Topper Piece: using gold  to bright yellow main colored yarn
Round 1: In a magic adjustable circle, ch 2 before placing 10 hdc into the circle.  Pull circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. Note: Beginning ch 2 does not count as st in pattern. (10 hdc)
Round 2: Ch 2 before placing 2 hdc in 1st st st and 2 hdc in each of the following 9 st around.  Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (20 hdc)
Round 3: Ch 2 before *placing 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next st*, repeating * pattern for remaining 18 st around.  Sl st in top of 1st st in round. (30 hdc)
Round 4: Done in back loops only! Ch 2 before placing 1 hdc in BLO in 1st st and 1 hdc in the BLO of the remaining 29 st around.  Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round.  (30 hdc)
Round 5: Ch 2 before placing 1 hdc in 1st st and 1 hdc in the remaining 29 st around.  Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (30 hdc)
Round 6: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in 1st st and 1 sc in the remaining 29 st around.  Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (30 sc)
Leave extra long tail to secure topper base if you chose this step and then to sew it on top of the beanie hat during assembly. Cut yarn and pull yarn length through last loop on hook. Place to side until needed.

The above features work great on toddler, youth, teen, women and men sized beanie hats. If you are making this hat in one of the infant sizes (Newborn to 12 mos) or prefer smaller features on toddler sized hat, follow the following instructions than those above:
Round 1: In a magic adjustable circle, ch 2 before placing 10 hdc into the circle.  Pull circle tightly closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. Note: Beginning ch 2 does not count as st in pattern. (10 hdc)
Round 2: Ch 2 before placing 2 hdc in 1st st st and 2 hdc in each of the following 9 st around.  Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (20 hdc)
Round 3: Done in back loops only! Ch 2 before placing 1 hdc in BLO in 1st st and 1 hdc in the BLO of the remaining 19 st around.  Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round.  (20 hdc)
Round 4: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in 1st st and 1 sc in the remaining 19 st around.  Sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (20 sc)
Leave extra long tail to secure topper base if you chose this step and then to sew it on top of the beanie hat during assembly. Cut yarn and pull yarn length through last loop on hook. Place to side until needed.

Eyes (Make 2): using black yarn
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing the following stitches in this order: (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc). Pull the ovalish circle nice and closed before making a sl st in the top of the 1st st in round. (10 st total)
Leave a tail long enough to sew this eye on to the beanie hat during assembly before cutting yarn and pulling through last loop on hook. Put to side until needed in finishing steps.
Repeat above process for second eye.

The above features work great on toddler, youth, teen, women and men sized beanie hats. If you are making this hat in one of the infant sizes (Newborn to 12 mos) or prefer smaller features on toddler sized hat, follow the following instructions than those above:
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing the following stitches in this order: (1 sc, 1 hdc , 2 sc, 1 hdc and 1 sc.  Pull ovalish circle closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round.  (6 st total)
Leave a tail long enough to sew this eye on to the beanie hat during assembly before cutting yarn and pulling through last loop on hook. Put to side until needed in finishing steps.
Repeat above process for second eye.

Smile: using black yarn
Make a chain of 12.
Leave a tail long enough to sew this smile chain on to the beanie hat during assembly before cutting yarn and pulling through last loop on hook. Put to side until needed in finishing steps.

The above features work great on toddler, youth, teen, women and men sized beanie hats. If you are making this hat in one of the infant sizes (Newborn to 12 mos) or prefer smaller features on toddler sized hat, follow the following instructions than those above:
Switch to a smaller hook, a G or H are recommended and make a chain of 7 -or- place small amount of black yarn to the side to stitch smile on in desired place during assembly.

Eyebrows (Make 2): using black yarn
Make a chain of 8.
Leave a tail long enough to sew this eyebrow on to the beanie hat during assembly before cutting yarn and pulling through last loop on hook. Put to side until needed in finishing steps.
Repeat above for second eyebrow.

The above features work great on toddler, youth, teen, women and men sized beanie hats. If you are making this hat in one of the infant sizes (Newborn to 12 mos) or prefer smaller features on toddler sized hat, follow the following instructions than those above:
Switch to a smaller hook, a G or H are recommended and make a chain of 4 -or- place small amount of black yarn to the side to stitch eyebrows on in desired place during assembly.

Shining light spot on eye (Make 2): using white yarn
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 3 sc in to the circle. Pull the circle closed and sl st in the top of the 1st st in round.
Leave a tail long enough to sew this spot on to the finished eye during assembly before cutting yarn and pulling through last loop on hook.
Repeat process for second eye light spot.

The above features work great on toddler, youth, teen, women and men sized beanie hats. If you are making this hat in one of the infant sizes (Newborn to 12 mos) or prefer smaller features on toddler sized hat, follow the following instructions than those above:
Instead of doing  a round of sc stitches like in larger sized hats make a double knot once or twice and leave a length of tail long enough to secure it in place to the eye during assembly. Repeat for second eye light spot.

Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern (11)

Finishing steps and assembly:
The following steps require these completed hat features:
1- finished beanie
1- topper base (optional)
1- topper piece
2- eyes
2- shining light spots
2- eyebrows
1- smile

Now that you have finished making the pieces for this hat you are ready to assemble it into your own Lego Man hat!
Starting with the topper piece and topper base to assemble (Note: if decided to skip this optional piece, skip to next step).  Line up the topper base so that it will cover the opening on your topper piece stitch to stitch.  Using the yarn tail left on your topper piece and use your yarn needle to sew them together.  You want to stop 2/3 to 3/4 of the way around to lightly stuff the topper with the fiberfill (or desired stuffing of your choice) before closing it completely.  I may have added a pinch or two too much in my hat so it didn’t sit just like I wanted it to due to dome shape of beanie, so when you reach desired amount you might want to take out a little bit more just in case for a less bubbled look.
If you chose to skip the base part, just stuff topper as you sew it directly on to the hat.You want to stop 2/3 to 3/4 of the way around to lightly stuff the topper with the fiberfill (or desired stuffing of your choice) before closing it completely.
Once you have done first step of topper piece, use the remaining yarn tail and the yarn needle to sew the assembled topper in the desired location on hat. I choose to center mine around the original rounds of beanie for symmetry.  When topper is secure on top of hat, pull yarn to the inside of the hat.  On features that stay upright on hats I tend to run another quick set of knots or stitches on the inside of the hat to reinforce the joining but it isn’t required. (Yes I’m paranoid of unraveling projects..)   After doing that, fasten off.
Next up, take the yarn tail left on your smile chain (or length of black yarn to stitch smile on in place for infant hats) and use the yarn needle to sew the smile in face in the bottom middle area of hat. You can reference my pictures to see how I placed it on my hat if you want some guidance on that.  When your smile is secured in place (or stitched on) bring yarn to the inside of the hat and fasten off.
Taking the tail left on one shining light spot for a eye and secure it in desired place on a Lego Man Eye. You can use use the yarn needle to do so or just secure around a stitch with a double knot or two in the back.  Repeat for the second eye.
Now that his eyes are assembled, we are ready to move on by attaching the finished eyes on to the beanie hat.  Use the black yarn tail left on one eye and the yarn needle to sew the eye in place on the front of the beanie hat above the smile. You can see where I placed my own in the pictures if you want to see how I did it.  When eye is securely in place, pull yarn to the inside of the hat and fasten off. Repeat process for second assembled eye.
The last feature to add are the eyebrows, so taking the yarn tail left on one eyebrow (or length of yarn to stitch on in infant hats) use your yarn needle to sew (or stitch on) the eyebrow in desired location over one eye.  Once eyebrow is where you desire, pull the yarn to the inside of the beanie and fasten off.  Repeat for second eyebrow.
Now take the time to look over your finished hat to make sure you didn’t miss any loose ends, yarn tails etc.  If you find any, go ahead and fasten them off now.  That’s it. All done!
I hope you enjoyed this pattern, if you have any questions please let me know. Happy crafting! :)

Lego Man Character Hat Free Crochet Pattern

Here are some additional pictures I have taken to show how this Lego Man hat looks worn once it is completed from different angles:

Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern (3)

Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern (6)

Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern (4)

Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern (8)

Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern (13)

Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern (15)

Lego Man Character Hat Crochet Pattern (20)

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Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!

Chibi Amigurumi Ninja Doll Crochet Pattern

Chibi Amigurumi Ninja Doll Crochet Pattern_ a chick crafting through Rheumatoid Arthritis cRAfterChick.com

Chibi Amigurumi Ninja Doll Crochet Pattern

free crochet pattern from cRAfterChick.com

Chibi Amigurumi Ninja Doll Free Crochet Pattern

 

My oldest nephew is getting older and older. This past year he became very active in Karate and has been getting awards for his skills. I call him my Little Ninja so I made him his own stuffed ninja with a matching hat.

This crochet pattern is for the Chibi Amigurumi Ninja Doll seen in picture above.  If you are looking for the Chibi Ninja Hat Crochet pattern, you can find it here… Chibi Ninja Hat Crochet pattern.

Chibi Amigurumi Ninja Doll Crochet Pattern Notes

Chibi Ninja Doll Crochet Pattern

Project requires:
Yarn for main color (I used black in picture)-  (I use a lot of Red Heart Saver yarn but any medium to normal weight yarn will do)
Contrast color of your choice for Ninja’s face/skin tone ( I used a light tan color)
“H” hook (5.00 mm)
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends
Fiberfill stuffing

Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
sctog – single crochet two stitches together (US)

Pattern Instructions:

*Note: This project is worked in the round on the base of a magic ring. If you do not know how to do this, please see tutorial here from: yarntomato on CrochetMe

Arms (make 2): using black or desired main color 
Round 1: In magic circle ch 1 before makinig 6 sc in circle. Sl st to top of first st. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1 and make 2 sc in each sc around. Sl st to top of first st. (12 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc around (back loops only). Sl st to top of first st. (12 sc)
Rounds 4-5: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around. Sl st to top of first st. (12 sc)
Round 6: Ch 1, *1 sc in next 4 st , sctog next two stitches. Continue * around.  Sl st to top of first st. (10 sc)
Rounds 7-8: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around.  Sl st to top of first st. (10 sc)
Round 9: Ch 1. Sctog first two st together, sc in next three st, sctog together next two st together, sc until end of round.  Sl st to top of first st. (8 sc)
Round 10: Ch 1. sctog first two st together, sc in next 2 st, sctog together next two st, Ch 1 and turn leaving last two st unworked. (4 sc)
Round 11. Sctog first two st and sctog last two st together. Ch 1 and turn. (2 sc)
Pull yarn through and leaving a long enough tail of yarn to secure the arms to the body of the ninja doll when attaching them.

Legs (Make 2): using black yarn or desired main color
Round 1: In magic circle ch 1 before making 6 sc in circle. Sl st to top of first st. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, make 2 sc in each st around. Sl st to top of first st. (12 sc)
Round 3: 2 sc in first st, *1 sc in next st and 2 sc in following st. Continue * around round. Sl st to top of first st.  (18 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around (back loops only.  Sl st to top of first st. (18 sc)
Rounds 5- 6 :Ch 1, 1 sc in each in st around. Sl st to top of first st. (18 sc)
Round 7: Ch 1, *1 sc in next 2 st , sctog next two stitches. Continue * around. Sl st to top of first st.  (12 sc)
Round 8: Ch 1, * sctog next two stitches and continue * around. Sl st to top of first st. (6 sc)
Round 9: Ch 1, 1 sc in each each st around. Sl st to top of first st. (6 sc)
Pull yarn through and make sure to leave a long enough tail length to secure the legs to the body of the ninja doll.

Ninja face area: using light tan / flesh colored yarn
Round 1:  Starting with a foundation chain of 9 ch,  make 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the 6 st and 2 sc in last st of chain. (10 sc)  Turning so you are working on back side of foundation chain to create more of  a circle, work 2 sc in first ch, sc in each ch until last st, place 2 sc in last st.  Sl st to top of first st.
Round 2-4: Continue working around with 1 sc in each st but 2 sc in each of the four corners around your forming rectangle. Sl st into first st to complete each round. Continue until you are the final size you want. For my Chibi Ninja in picture for this crochet pattern I made 4 rounds total.
Pull yarn through leaving enough tail to sew on face to secure to doll later when cutting. Put Ninja face area to side until needed.

Eyes: using black yarn 
Using black yarn and leaving a bit of a tail for sewing eye in place when done, chain 4. Pull yarn through and cut yarn. Using large blunt eye needle, sew eye into position you want it to be in. I sometimes pin my in place to make sure I have them even or it drives me nuts.  Finish off yarn from eyes behind face, and put face to side until needed for ninja doll.
You can choose to put the eyes in all kinds of positions like:   \ / or / \ or _ _  or even > < with small v’s instead of eye strip used above.

Ninja Doll Body: using black yarn or desired main color 
1: In magic circle ch 1(Does not count as a sc) before placing 6 sc in circle. Sl st to top of first st. (6 sc)
2: Ch 1 place 2 sc in each sc around. Sl st to top of first st. (12 sc)
3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, *1 sc in next st and 2 sc in following st. Continue * around round. Sl st to top of first st. (18 sc)
4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, *1 sc in next 2 st and 2 sc in following st. Continue * around round. Sl st to top of first st. (24 sc)
5: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, *1 sc in next 3 st and 2 sc in following st. Continue * around round. 30
6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, *1 sc in next 4 st and 2 sc in following st. Continue * around round. Sl st to top of first st. (36 sc)
7-22: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around.  Sl st to top of first st. (36 sc)
Note:About half way through these rounds you will want to stop to attach the face to the front of the ninja doll and the two arms so you can hide seams inside of doll before starting to stuff as you progress.
23: Ch 1, sctog first two st. *1 sc in the next 3 st, sctog next two st. Continue * around. Sl st to top of first st. (24 sc)
24:Ch 1, sctog first two st. *1 sc in the next 2 st, sctog next two st. Continue * around. Sl st to top of first st. (18 sc)
25:Ch 1, sctog first two st. *1 sc in the next 1 st, sctog next two st. Continue * around. Sl st to top of first st. (12 sc)
This is a good time to put the legs on before closing two rounds. By placing them facing forward and more to sides it allows the doll to sit up when not being cuddled.  Make sure you fill up the Ninja Doll to the size, squeezability you desire with your fiberfill stuffing. I prefer mine not to hard stuffed but strong enough to hold shape and some weight to them.
Round 26: Ch 1, sctog first two st, sctog next two st continuing sctog around. Sl st to top of first st. (6 sc)
27: Ch 1, sctog first two st, sctog next two st continuing sctog around. (3 sc)
Pull yarn through, sew opening closed with yarn needle and finish off. Double check your Ninja Doll for any loose ends you might of missed before and weave them in before finishing off the piece. Done :)

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Note: All the cRAfterChick patterns shared on this site are free of charge.  Please feel free to use them to make your own items.  If you use it to make items to sell please credit cRAfterChick for the pattern and provide link to our site.  Please do not copy and paste my pattern or try to use my images as your own.  You can link to any of my patterns.  Happy crafting!