Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern
This pattern was born out of love for Funko pop collectibles and my growing addiction to collecting them. Often I wanted plush dolls of them but to be honest they never have the characters I like.
So what happens when you can’t find something but you are crafty and geeky? Yep. You make it yourself. So now I have a small army expanding and overtaking my bedroom slowly but surely. It’s pretty awesome to be honest. I have mock-ups for some of my favorite fandoms and characters swirling around in my head. What can you imagine?
But we all start somewhere… here is the base for the Funko inspired dolls I have been created. Shown completed here as Mowgli (because naked dolls are oddly disturbing to me). If you can work in the round and do single crochet, you can make this doll. No fancy stitches and he is hug approved. My dolls done with when Medium (4- weight Caron one-pounder) yarn and a H hook came to just over 11 inches tall when completed.
Project requires:
Flesh tone yarn
Safety eyes (x2) or black yarn to stitch on eyes
(I use a lot of Red Heart Saver or Caron One Pound skein yarn but any medium to normal 4 weight yarn will do)
“G” to “H” hook (4.0-5.0 mm) – I actually used my preferred Clover hook which is inbetween a 7 (4.5 mm) and ended up with doll, once hair attached at just over 11 inches tall
Scissors or Yarn Cutter
Blunt large eye yarn / tapestry needle to weave in ends
Abbreviations used in this pattern (US crochet stitches):
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet (US)
BLO – back loops only (US)
Basic Funko Inspired Amigurumi Doll Crochet Pattern Notes
Legs (x) – using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4 (Done in BLO): Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st BLO around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 7 times, 1 sc in last 5 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (17 st)
Rd 6: Ch 1, sc in 1st 5 st, *sctog next 2 stitches* repeat * 4 times, 1 sc in last 4 st. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (13 st)
Rds 7-16: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in the top of 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Rd 17: Ch 1, before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in tip of the 1st st worked. (13 sc)
Leave yarn with long enough tail to secure on to the dolls body when ready to sew on before cutting yarn and pull through.
Lightly stuff legs with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.
Repeat for second leg and put to side until ready to assemble.
Arms (x2) – using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (9 sc)
Rds 3- 15: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc)
Rd 16: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of first sc worked. (9 sc) Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the arm on to the doll’s body when ready to in assembly’s process. Pull through stitch.
Lightly stuff arms with small pinches of fiberfill. I find it handy to use the eraser end of a pencil or the stick that comes with the fiberfill to gently guide the stuffing down in to long limbs.
Repeat above for second arm and place to side until ready to assemble.
Body- using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 6 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (6 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (12 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (24 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rds 6-15: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (30 sc)
Rd 16: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st worked. (18 sc)
Rd 20: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 sc)
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Stuff body to a fullness but with some give still for hugs and to be able to get your needle through when attaching limbs.
Put to side until assembly.
Head- using flesh tone yarn of your choice
Rd 1: In a magic circle, ch 1 before placing 8 sc in m.c. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (8 sc)
Rd 2: Ch 1 before placing 2 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st sc worked. (16 sc)
Rd 3: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 sc)
Rd 4: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked (32 sc)
Rd 5: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, 2 sc in next st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
Rds 6-17: Ch 1 before placing 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (40 sc)
(This is normally a good time to put in the safety eyes as it gets narrower but it’s not impossible to do once head is finished as it has an open bottom. I do sometimes leave it until almost done as well. )
Rd 18: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (32 st)
Rd 19: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 3 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (24 st)
Rd 20: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st 2 st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (16 st)
Rd 21: Ch 1 before placing *1 sc in 1st st, sctog next 2 st* repeat * around. Sl st in top of 1st st worked. (12 st).
Cut yarn with a yarn tail long enough to be able to secure the head on to the doll’s body when ready to in assembly’s process. Pull through stitch.
Doll Assembly:
You should have:
- 1 doll head
- 1 doll body
- 2 doll legs
- 2 doll arms
I normally start with the legs and work my way up.
Check your stuffing to make sure desired firmness before taking a yarn needle and the yarn tail on one leg use it to fasten your doll’s leg in desired location on body. (You can see my pictures to see how I placed mine to reflect the Funko characters.) Once done, repeat with second leg.
You are then going to repeat process with the dolls arms. Check for stuffing firmness. Not packed tight but not deflated and sew in place. Pull yarn tail to inside and cut off.
Now we come to the head. There are a couple of things you want to do here before you attach the head. This pattern is for the basic so I will stick to most important but I do want to let you know it is important to stop here if you want to do any additionally embroidery on face, coloring etc before head is attached. It makes it much easier.
If you have your eyes in place, head stuffed and are ready to go, move on to this step. Take your yarn tail from the head and yarn needle to secure your head in desired position on top of the opening of the doll body.
To make heads less floppy when doing large hair, I attach the joining and run another round out on the head.
There is your doll. Feel free to decorate it, dress, add hair, clothing, change colors up. However you wish.
I have a small army that I have been working on that includes characters from Marvel, video games and Disney. I am pretty excited to share them with you when done. So keep tuned and please drop and share your creations from the pattern base. I would love to see what you create with it.
<3 cRAfterChick
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